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Cars

Seat upgrade time

After a failed attempt to install some B8 seats into my B6, I elected to go period correct. You know, because period correct is cool… not because I totally failed to make a relatively straight forward install work and needed to hit the easy button. When a set of B7 Recaro seats in pretty great condition showed up on eBay I jumped on them. I’m super happy with how they’re turning out – so far.

Not pristine… but no tears and they don’t smell like an ashtray.

First things first, I tackled the front seats. Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Upgrading seats is a no-brainer.” But trust me, it’s not all sunshine and rainbows. I encountered my first hurdle when I discovered that the driver’s seat was giving me an airbag warning. I went through all the connections, all looked good. There’s a service bulletin on the seats because of a connector can fail… not that, already fixed. After tearing my hair out (what little I have), I took another look at the connectors. Driver’s side plug didn’t look like it was seating all the way. Turns out there was a small piece of broken plastic sitting in the bottom, just big enough to make the connection sporadically blip. It took some digging to remove the culprit, but problem solved.

The good news is that both front seats are now up and running smoothly, and I’m loving the added warmth courtesy of the seat heaters – perfect for those chilly mornings or cozy evenings behind the wheel. The Recaro seats are a huge upgrade from the base seats, with much better lateral support, and the passenger seat is now motorized.

However, not all is rosy just yet. The rear seat backs are a bit more high-maintenance than I anticipated. Specifically, both passenger and driver sides feature latches that require a key – which, of course, I didn’t have. No worries, though; the keyed portion of the latch is all in the plastic handle, a simple swap in from my stock seats fixed that.

Swapping locking with non-locking is a simple, drop-in fix.

Additionally, I found the latch on the rear driver’s side would not latch. I found that if I manipulated it by hand, it would fully latch, but just didn’t spring into place. I was hoping it was just in need of lubrication, but unfortunately it is broken.

The original seats from the car, however, provided a working spare. I transferred the latch mechanism from the old seat to the new one, which was actually quite straightforward once I understood the process. YouTube, once again, kept me from failing.

The passenger side rear seat back still needs some TLC, but it’ll have to wait for now – there’s a pesky wire in the way that’s making it tricky to remove.

All in all, I’m thrilled with the progress so far.

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Cars

New stereo time

Sure, the in-dash 6 disk changer/tape deck combo is totally boss… for 20 years ago.

Since I haven’t listened to a CD in at least 10 years (and am not sure where my tapes are), it’s time to take a leap forward… on a budget. Three cheers for inexpensive Chinese Android head units that are tailor-made for my car model. They even pre-set the button LEDs to match Audi’s red buttons.

Looks like it belongs there.

Time to order a back up camera…

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Cars Idle

A4 engine removal – driveshaft unbolted (day 19)

Today I did some small things getting ready to pull the engine and transmission.

First I unbolted the drive shaft and tucked it out of the way.

Next i started working on the bolts holding the driveshafts in place for the front of the car. The bolts are tough, so I’m going to need to come back to these when I have an assistant to stand on the breaks so they don’t rotate.

Time invested – 1 hour

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Cars Idle

A4 engine removal – starter and AC pulled (day 18)

Pulled a few more parts off the car today.

I started with the removing the starter and unbolting the AC compressor.

I then moved to the exhaust and worked on getting it separated from the rear of the system.

The flex pipe was on its last legs… but no matter, I’m going from 2″ to 3″ exhaust.

Time invested – 2 hours

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Cars Idle

A4 engine removal – front carrier removal (day 17)

Today I drained the brake fluid and the remainder of the engine coolant in the process of pulling off the front carrier. I started by swinging the AC radiator down and out of the way.

I drained off the brake fluid an the remainder of the engine coolant from the bottom of the radiator.

And finally took off the front carrier.

Mmmm… organic!

Time invested – 3 hours

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Cars Idle

A4 engine removal – disassembly started (day 16)

Approaching the point of no return…

Today I took the next step towards the end goal, I started disassembling the A4. Today I took off the front bumper cover and drained the washer fluid and oil.

Time invested, 3 hours.

 

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Cars Idle

Engine refresh – replacing hoses and turbo plumbing (day 15)

Today was a combination of working on plumbing for the 2.7t and preparing the 1.8t for removal.

I started with the fraying diverter valve hose. The passenger side hose was brand new… why didn’t the shop that replaced that also replace the aging part from the driver’s side?

I also started removing the hoses for driver’s side turbo in prep for putting the turbos back on. When I removed the turbos it was incredibly difficult to get into the hoses with the turbos in place. I’m currently planning to remove the turbos and their feeder lines from the engine to install the oil and coolant lines.

Finally I did a compression test on 1.8T engine in prep for removing then selling it. I took pictures and videos in the hope it would speed the sale of the engine if folks new it was in good health, well maintained and low mileage.

Time invested, 2 hours on hoses, 30 minutes on compression test… and 2 hours on getting compression tool back out of the engine (previous spark plug change hadn’t been done with anti-seize, I need look back at my records and never go back to that shop).

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Cars Idle

Engine refresh – finished timing belt (day 14)

When I did the timing belt I didn’t loosen the camshaft sprockets. It wasn’t that I didn’t have the tools, I did. I had even loosened them to replace their seals. Well, turns out that if you tighten them down too early then the belt tension doesn’t get distributed around the loop.

So, after hand testing the belt to be sure the alignment was correct it was off by a few degrees. I hoped it was close enough. I asked around the internet, hoping it was close enough. It clearly wasn’t close enough. I went back through the instructions, pulled the sprockets loose and immediately the belt load evened out. Turns out following instructions saves you a bunch of time.

I also spent time evaluating the various vacuum, air injection and fuel hoses. A number of them require replacing, but I’m not entirely sure what to order to deal with some of the frayed and cracked hoses. I may have to use my phone a friend.

Time invested, 2 hours.

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Cars Idle

Engine refresh – turbo dry fit (day 13)

I started off my work today with a bunch of research into Oetiker clamps. These clamps are the special, single use clamps which Audi (and other manufacturers) use all over the engine, especially on high pressure systems like fuel lines. There are a number of hoses I need to replace as well as hoses I had to break the old clamp to remove from the car. I spent about 15 minutes going through the engine compartment taking stock of the sizes I’d need… and then two to three times that amount of time online trying to find the most economical way to order multiple sizes in less than lots of 100.

After spending too much time shopping for parts, I dry-fit the turbos to the engine. I wanted to make sure they were lined up correctly on the exhaust manifolds and that I had all the right parts to put them together correctly. The turbos from XSPower came with a great supply of needed gaskets and crush washers, but I found the stock banjo bolts were too short to get the thread to catch with new washers from XS. Looks like I’m going to need to do some research (do I need new, longer bolts, different washers or do I flatten the new ones a bit?).

Time invested: 3 hours

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Cars

New turbochargers – Day 12

Today I spent a few hours playing with my new parts.

Out with the old

I took the driver’s side turbo off, separated it from the exhaust manifold and I bolted the new passenger side turbo up to the passenger exhaust manifold.

Clocked correctly?

One thing I am a bit curious about, the turbo has a divot that looks to be intended for exhaust manifold clearance. The turbo housing appears, however, to be a few degrees off and is making contact with the manifold. I will need to recheck this once it’s on the car to make sure the turbo is clocked correctly.

Time invested: 3 hours